Trekking Morocco’s High Atlas: And the ascent of Mt. Toubkal

Marrakesh: The Gateway to the High Atlas ( A story of a traveller)

I begin my journey in Marrakesh, a city that feels like a world of its own. Its old medina – a UNESCO World Heritage site – is a maze of narrow alleys packed with vendors and stalls. Wandering through Jemaa el-Fnaa square in the evening, I’m surrounded by sizzling food stands, storytellers, and the sounds of Moroccan music echoing off ancient walls. The air is thick with the scent of spices and orange blossom, and the call to prayer from the Koutoubia Mosque mingles with the chatter of the crowds. It’s a vibrant, sensory experience that highlights Morocco’s rich culture and history.

Yet as much as I love the energy of the medina, I know that beyond the city lies a different adventure. Marrakesh is the gateway to the Atlas Mountains, and early the next morning I leave the city’s rose-colored walls behind. A winding road takes me out of the bustling urban landscape and into the foothills of the High Atlas. In just a couple of hours, the noise of traffic gives way to peaceful terraced fields and walnut groves. We drive past small villages and olive orchards as the peaks of the Atlas grow larger on the horizon.

Soon, I arrive in Imlil, a bustling Berber mountain town about 1,740 meters above sea level. Imlil is the start point for many treks, and it immediately charms me with its calmer pace and stunning backdrop of towering mountains.

Into the High Atlas Mountains

In Imlil’s winding lanes, I feel the excitement of the upcoming trek. The village is alive with trekking shops selling colorful scarves and gear, small bakeries with the smell of fresh bread, and open sacks of spices on display. I pass by carpets laid out on rocks and see mules waiting patiently, their pack saddles decorated in bright Berber patterns. These sturdy mules are the main transport in the mountains – ready to carry supplies up the steep trails of Toubkal. Before setting off, I enjoy a glass of sweet mint tea offered by a local host, a warm Berber welcome that calms any nerves.

By late morning, our guide starts hiking up the Mizane Valley toward Mt Toubkal. The path leads through terraced fields and among stone houses as we leave Imlil. The trail is initially gentle but soon becomes a steady uphill. As we gain altitude, I notice the air getting thinner and each step takes a bit more effort. We trek through a mix of landscapes – from lush green valley floors to rugged, rocky slopes higher up. Along the way, we pass through the tiny hamlet of Aroumd and then reach Sidi Chamharouch, a fascinating little settlement built around a boulder painted white. Sidi Chamharouch is a shrine that draws pilgrims from all over Morocco, who come seeking blessings and good fortune. The village has a few ramshackle tea huts where we pause to rest, listening to the distant rush of a waterfall and the murmur of pilgrims at the shrine.

Continuing upward, the landscape grows more barren. The trail zigzags up a steep incline, and I find a steady rhythm with my breathing. The altitude makes the climb hard going, but the views make it worth every step. Looking back, I can see Imlil and other small villages far below, clinging to the hillsides, and the valley we came from now folds out towards the horizon. It’s late afternoon by the time we reach the Toubkal Base Camp at around 3,200 m, near the Toubkal Refuge. We settle into a simple mountain hut where other trekkers from around the world are chatting over hot mint tea. The sense of camaraderie is strong – everyone here has the same mixture of tiredness and excitement on their faces. As dusk falls, our Berber cook prepares a comforting tagine for dinner, and I savor each bite under a sky full of stars. That night, wrapped in my sleeping bag, I drift off listening to the wind sweeping over the mountains, eager for the big day ahead.

Summit of Mt Toubkal: On Top of North Africa

Before dawn, I wake up to clear, cold mountain air. After a quick breakfast, we set out by headlamp light to tackle the summit of Jebel Toubkal, which at 4,167 m is the highest peak in North Africa. The first hour of the ascent is steep and rocky. We scramble over loose scree and boulders, taking it slow and steady. I focus on my breathing and the beam of my headlamp on the trail. As the sun begins to rise, a glow spreads over the surrounding peaks, revealing a barren lunar-like landscape. The climb is challenging – the altitude and the endless switchbacks test my legs and lungs – but I feel a determination with every step.

After about three hours, we reach a ridgeline and suddenly the summit pyramid comes into view. A final short push and I’m standing on the summit of Mt Toubkal, literally on the roof of North Africa. The feeling is overwhelming. I’m panting from the thin air and my legs are burning, but a wave of joy and gratitude washes over me. From up here the panorama is breathtaking – unrestricted views in every direction. To the north I can see the vast Marrakech Plain far below, and to the south, beyond the jagged ranges of the Anti-Atlas, the horizon fades into the sands of the Sahara Desert. The morning light casts sharp shadows across the valleys, and I can even spot tiny villages and roads as mere specks in the distance. In that moment I feel both small and immensely alive, standing where the Atlas touches the sky. My guide claps me on the back and we share a celebratory hug, smiling broadly in the cold thin air. We take the obligatory summit photo by the metal tripod that marks the top. I silently thank the mountain for allowing us to stand here.

After soaking in the view and the accomplishment, we begin our long descent back to Imlil. The hike down is easier on the lungs but hard on the knees. By the time we arrive in the village, the sun is setting and I am exhausted, covered in dust, but extremely happy. In two days I’ve trekked from vibrant city streets to the highest point in North Africa. We experienced a stunning variety of landscapes, from fertile valleys to stark high-altitude rock, on our way to Toubkal’s summit. It’s incredible to think that just yesterday I was in the bustling souks of Marrakesh, and now I’ve stood atop a 4,167 m mountain.

An Invitation to Adventure

As I relax with a cup of tea back in Marrakesh, I reflect on how this journey has touched me. The High Atlas Mountains tested my endurance and rewarded me with rich cultural encounters and natural beauty I will never forget. From the warmth of Berber hospitality in Imlil to the triumph of reaching Toubkal’s peak, Morocco’s contrasts have inspired me deeply. I’m writing this to invite you to experience it for yourself. As the founder of The Search Adventures, nothing makes me happier than sharing moments like this with fellow travelers. If this story sparks your wanderlust, I encourage you to join us searching for a great adventure and trek in Morocco.

Whether you’re an experienced hiker or a first-time adventurer, the High Atlas will welcome you with challenges and unforgettable rewards. Come explore Morocco with The Search Adventures – the journey from the medina to the mountains is one that will inspire you and stay with you forever.

– Fredrik Hermelin | The Search Adventures

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